THE WALKS: VIA CASSIA

1.

Sutri and the southern Cassia: history distilled. The Romans saw Sutri as the key to Etruria and fought fierce battles with the Etruscans here. In 728 Lombard King Liutprando ceded it to the Pope: this seedling of territory was to grow into the powerful Papal States. In 800 Charlemagne rested at Sutri on the way to his coronation in Rome; here begins the legend of Orlando, found living in a cave, destined for fame as Charlemagne’s staunchest knight. For two millennia Rome-bound pilgrims have stopped to gaze in wonder at the ancient amphitheatre and the mithraic cult-chamber, both carved in rock. We’ll savor Sutri’s historic center, then the charming hill town of Capranica and the remnants of a Roman town beyond it.
Easy 1-2 day walk. Lodging: Sutri, Vetralla

Ancient rock-cut amphitheatre, Sutri

2.

Lake Vico and the forest of Vetralla coming soon

3.

San Martino al Cimino to Viterbo coming soon

4.

Viterbo: city of Popes. In the 12th century Viterbo was a regional powerhouse, and sought to lure the papacy up from Rome. It succeeded for a spell: a papal palace was built and three popes were elected. Now a provincial capital, it boasts a beautiful medieval quarter, many magnificent Renaissance buildings, stunning churches, and a remarkable collection of fountains. Nearby are historic treasures like Villa Lante, with its elegant Renaissance garden and fountains, the famous pilgrimage church of Santa Maria della Quercia, and several eerie Etruscan roads leading to thermal baths along the Via Cassia.
1-3 days, easy walking. Lodging: Viterbo

5.

Viterbo to Montefiascone: baths, basoli, vino. We follow the Cassia past ancient thermal springs and Roman ruins – one of these a striking octagonal structure sketched by Michelangelo and other artists traveling between Rome and Florence. The great cupola of Montefiascone’s cathedral draws us onward, dominating the countryside from its high hill, as we tread a well-preserved stretch of basoli (paving stones) through orchards and vineyards. Our day draws to a close with a stunning view of Lake Bolsena from Montefiascone’s medieval fortress, and a glass of her renowned wine with our dinner.
1 day easy-to-moderate walk. Lodging: Viterbo, Montefiascone

6.

Lake Bolsena to Orvieto: incomparable vistas. From Montefiascone the Cassia traces a ridge top with spectacular views of Lake Bolsena, then drops to cross a clear rushing stream. Picnic sites abound here. At Bolsena town we admire the cluster of stone buildings mounting the hillside and the ruins of a Roman town overlooking the lake. Climbing eastward out of the crater the Cassia offers a series of magnificent lake panoramas, then enters Umbria, crossing rolling farmland with giant oaks and chestnuts and a sprinkling of Etruscan tombs. Soon we begin to catch a glimpse of our destination: the magical hill town of Orvieto. As we draw near the view becomes breathtaking, with sunlight reflecting off the gilt face of the massive gothic cathedral.
2-3 day walk of moderate difficulty. Lodging: Montefiascone, Bolsena, Orvieto highly recommended

7.

Orvieto to Bagnoregio: and the views go on. Having savored Orvieto’s good wine – as well as her churches, museums and shops – we descend the cliff and follow an old aqueduct up the other side of the valley. With our gaze drawn continually back toward Orvieto, we pass a monastery and a 13th-century castle (still in service), arriving at tiny Porano high on a hill. We pick up an old cart-track through hills and forest to Lubriano, with unforgettable views of little Civita di Bagnoregio on its crumbling perch, and the eerily eroded calanchi landscape to the east. After braving a knife-edged calanchi ridge trail, we find a cozy spot in Civita to relax with some delicious bruschetta and a glass of wine.
1-2 day walk of moderate difficulty. Lodging: Orvieto, Bagnoregio, points between. highly recommended