I’m heading home after a month in Rome and the Alban Hills – a solitary ring of volcanic craters rising out of the coastal plain just southeast of the city. My train ride to the Rome airport this morning was graced by a gorgeous sunrise over Monte Cavo (“Hollow Mountain”), the central peak of the range, where a temple of Jupiter stood well before the birth of Rome. Its 360° panorama takes in the Apennines and their many-layered foothills, the shining Mediterranean, and Rome – plus nearby crater lakes, and the charming wine-producing towns known as the Castelli Romani. It’s not hard to see why this has been considered sacred territory for three thousand years.

On the slopes of Monte Cavo, legend has it that Ascanius, son of Aeneas, founded the town of Alba Longa, mother of Latin culture and of Rome itself. Alba Longa was destroyed by the unappreciative Romans around 650 BC. The Alban Hills became prime real estate for Roman patricians – and remain so, dotted with grandiose castles and villas from every period. The most magnificent of these are “trophy villas” erected by the wealthy families that dominated the Papacy during the Renaissance and Baroque eras.

For the first three weeks of January the weather was more like June, so I enjoyed my favorite pastimes: walking with friends, exploring, piecing together itineraries. A large regional park provides scenic trails through the chestnut woods, up the peaks and around the lakes. Vestiges of Roman civilization abound. Wonderful food and excellent local wine are everywhere. Then, late in the month, a turn in the weather brought a mantle of snow: overnight the forest became a scene of enchantment, peopled by a few hardy souls – joggers, mountain bikers, dog-walkers. I took shelter in a stately old abbey overlooking Lake Albano, where simple rooms and good meals can be had for a modest sum. From my window I watched the snow-lined lake basin slowly turn dark red as the sun sank behind the crater rim. Not a sight I’ll soon forget.

Alban Hills: highlights

• Albano: lively town on the Via Appia with Roman remains galore: baths, amphitheatre, army camp, temples, villas, and the only still-functioning Roman cistern in Europe – a massive barrel-vaulted structure

• Castel Gandolfo: tidy hamlet on the crater rim overlooking Lake Albano, site of the original Alba Longa.  Here the Pope spends his summers

• Lake Albano: small, crystal-blue lake in a steep crater, once surrounded by Roman villas, now encircled by scenic trails

• Lake Nemi, “mirror of Diana”: an even smaller crater lake, on whose shore stood a renowned ancient sanctuary – the temple and grove of Diana, presided over by a priest who was traditionally a runaway slave; he had to kill the previous priest in single combat. This chilling ritual was made famous by Sir James Frazer’s book, The Golden Bough

• Rocca di Papa: village of cascading terraces huddled under a ruined medieval castle on the upper slope of Monte Cavo. In the neighboring chestnut woods a virtually intact Roman road (the “Via Sacra”) leads up the mountain and down toward Lake Nemi: a walk of haunting beauty

• Frascati: the most elegant of the Castelli towns, renowned for its villas, parks, wineries and food

• Tusculum: Roman town on a lofty hill with stately trees, meadows and dazzling vistas. Cicero and other wealthy Romans had villas here. A fine theatre and a long stretch of tomb-lined road remain

Two new walking itineraries with special prices for 2005:

• 5-day/4 night Alban Hills walk: Albano, Castel Gandolfo, Lake Albano, Monte Cavo, Lake Nemi.  Price: US$1020 per person (double room)*

• 7-day/6 night Alban Hills walk: all the above plus Rocca di Papa, Frascati and Tusculum. Price: US$1500 per person (double room)*

Two old favorites now specially priced (see Via Cassia for details):

• 5-day/4 night Via Cassia walk: Viterbo, Montefiascone, Lake Bolsena, Orvieto. Price: US$960 per person (double room)*

• 7-day/6 night Via Cassia walk: all the above plus Lubriano, Bagnoregio and Civita di Bagnoregio. Price: US$1420 per person (double room)*

Dates available: April-May 2005 (possibly also in the fall).
Shorter trips – even day hikes – are also available. Write to me for more information or to book your walking trip. Hope to see you in Italy!

*Single room slightly more; 3- and 4-bed rooms slightly less (per person). This is your own private escorted walk (unless you prefer to join a group). Includes lodging, $65 daily allowance for meals & museums, guide fee, railway fare from Rome, and daily baggage shuttle. Air fare to Rome not included. Walks are normally 5-8 miles per day, occasionally up to 10. You’ll need a knapsack to carry lunch, water, extra clothing, etc. Lodging (chosen for ambience, cleanliness and comfort by your guide) may include 2- and 3-star hotels, B&Bs, farm accommodations, renovated monasteries and other religious institutions. Alternate lodging is sometimes available at additional cost (examples can be seen at www.villatuscolana.com and www.labadiahotel.it). Book early for best availability of dates/lodging.

To subscribe to the Roman Road Walks mailing list, click here
To unsubscribe, click here